Sausages and Plums Braised in Oregon Pinot Noir

The first time I cooked for Steelhead Camp, I was eager to get it right on a few levels. Something comforting yet reflective of where we were at that moment. A dish that captured everything about fall on the Deschutes—the shifting colors, the scent of desert sage on still-warm winds, chukar echoing through the canyon. A meal meant to be slow-cooked with a good glass of Pinot Noir in hand (as well as whatever was in the pan). And to just watch the river move by this camp, just as it has for centuries. Most of all, it had to be delicious.

This is one of those dishes. It’s at once rich and not at all heavy. Straightforward, but one that draws praise from any crowd, and just as good in the cool of spring as it is when the leaves begin to fall. For me, it’s a confidence dish, whether I’m serving it to chefs or to family. Casual. Delicious. Perfect for a crowd.

I serve this one with creamy or grilled polenta and my sourdough bread—because a dish like this wants to be soaked up to the very last drop. You can make it with Italian plums, as its author Molly Stevens wrote it, but bright red grapes or prunes also work beautifully. A little vinegar, some fresh herbs, or a squeeze of citrus brightens it. To me, braising just feels good. It’s dead simple to prepare just about anywhere. The preparation transforms a weeknight dinner at home or turns a weekend gathering into something special without the need to hover the stove. And if you’re anything like me, the combination of earthly aromatics and proteins lightly bubbling in liquid might pay a certain heed to those wild fish that make their storied run back to these rivers, year after year.

PREP TIME: 15 mins

COOK TIME: About an hour

SERVINGS: 2–4 (and easy to scale up)

Adapted from All About Braising by Molly Stevens

INGREDIENTS

• 1 lb ripe purple or red plums (Santa Rosa or Italian)
• 1¾ lbs sweet Italian sausages (with or without fennel seed)
• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 large shallot, minced (about 3 scant tablespoons)
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1½ tsp minced fresh sage (or ½ tsp dried)
• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Pinch of sugar, if needed.
• ⅔ cup light, fruity, dry red wine (Beaujolais, Dolcetto, or ideally, Oregon Pinot Noir).

INSTRUCTIONS

Prep the plums: Working over a bowl to catch the juices, cut the plums into ½-inch wedges. Taste one—if they’re on the tart side, keep that in mind for seasoning later. If they’re not freestone, cut the flesh away from the pit and let the slices drop into the bowl.

Brown the sausages: If the sausages are linked, separate them with a sharp knife. Prick each in a few spots so they don’t explode while cooking. Heat a large skillet or braising pan (12-inch works well, and I love shallow, enameled cast iron) over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and let it shimmer. Place the sausages in the pan, turning frequently until they develop a deep, golden crust—about 10 to 12 minutes. Use tongs to transfer them to a plate, keeping them in a single layer.

Sauté the aromatics: If there’s excess fat in the pan, pour off all but about 1 tablespoon. Add the shallot, stirring immediately to pick up the flavors left behind. Sauté until just beginning to brown, about a minute. Add the garlic and sage, stir, and cook for another 30 seconds, just until fragrant.

Braise with wine and plums: Pour in the plums and their juices. Season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar if needed. Stir and cook until the juices start to sizzle, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and bring the heat up to medium-high, scraping the bottom of the pan to deglaze. Let it simmer for 3 to 4 minutes to bring the flavors together.

Nestle and braise: Return the sausages to the pan, tucking them into the plums. Pour in any juices that collected on the plate. Cover, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, and let it cook for 25 to 30 minutes, turning the sausages halfway through. They’re done when a skewer or knife inserted into the sausage releases clear juices—no pink inside.

Finish the dish: Transfer the sausages to a serving platter. Use a slotted spoon to lift the plums and arrange them around the sausages. Cover loosely with foil. Check the sauce in the pan—it should be slightly thick, like a rich vinaigrette. If it’s too thin, let it simmer for a few minutes to concentrate. Taste, adjust seasoning, and pour the sauce over everything before serving.

Optional twist: You can swap in whole seedless red or purple grapes for the plums. Just add them at the same step, skipping the sugar unless needed.

This one’s best with a big hunk of good bread, a bottle of wine, and nowhere else to be.

Brought to us by our friend and chef Eric Hillerns.  Eric can be reached at @hillerns on Instagram.