Charro Beans (Frijoles Charros) with chef Eric Hillerns
Charro Beans (Frijoles Charros)
Because we’ve all just finished celebrating the Fourth of July, and to my mind, there are few better side dishes at a summer gathering than a big crock of beans. You’ll want to make these.
Charro beans—frijoles charros, or cowboy beans—are one of my favorite ways to do them. In essensce, they’re Pinto beans slow-simmered in a boldly flavored broth with bacon, chorizo, ham, chili peppers, tomatoes, and spices. It’s a dish with deep roots in Mexican ranch culture, with that brothy, almost soup-like consistency that makes it just as good as a main dish or served on the side. It reminds me a little of classic “pork and beans,” but so much better—bolder, smokier, with real character. It feels as at home on the Deschutes as it will wherever you hang your hat.
The smoky goodness of bacon and chipotle peppers just feels right this time of year. Maybe it’s the perfect stew of that melting pot of flavors that makes this country what it is. And if you’ve ever done a multi-day trip with Rob, you know the great gift at the end of many days on the river is his smoked baby back ribs, finished streamside and lathered up with a rich, tangy-sweet red sauce. I have my own approach to ribs, which we’ll discuss in later newsletter, but I’d put Rob’s up against any. For me, these charro beans alongside those ribs? Done!
I first served them to the Water Time crew and guests during Steelhead Camp on a warm October day when we went all-in for a full Mexican spread. Carne asada street tacos, spicy smoked slaw, pickled red onion, corn and jalapeño salad, guajillo sauce, and these beans bubbling away in a big pot. A cold lager in hand, a long nap before the late afternoon chase—that’s the memory for me. Few things are better. Food that’s meant to be shared, slow-cooked, and savored, wherever you find yourself.
Charro Beans (Frijoles Charros)
PREP TIME: 15–20 minutes
COOK TIME: About 2 hours (mostly unattended) Or longer.
SERVINGS: 6–8 (easy to scale up or down)
INGREDIENTS
- 1 pound dried pinto beans (about 2 cups), rinsed
- 6 cups water (or more as needed)
- ¼ of an onion
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 1 bay leaf
- 5 slices bacon, chopped
- 5 ounces chorizo (or substitute 2 sausages or hot dogs), chopped
- 1 cup diced ham or additional sausages
- ½ yellow onion, chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 ripe tomatoes, diced (or one 15-ounce can diced tomatoes)
- 1 jalapeño or serrano pepper, seeded and chopped
- ½ to 1 chipotle pepper in adobo sauce, chopped (optional but recommended for smoky heat)
- 1 cup fresh chopped cilantro (about half a bunch)
- ½ teaspoon cumin
- ½ teaspoon paprika
- ½ teaspoon oregano
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- 1 teaspoon chicken bouillon
INSTRUCTIONS
Cook the beans:
Rinse and sort the pinto beans, removing any stones or debris. Add to a large pot with 6 cups of water (or enough to cover them by about 2 inches), a chunk of onion, bay leaf, and ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Cook uncovered or partially covered for 1 to 2 hours, until beans are tender but not falling apart.
Check on them from time to time to make sure they stay covered with water, adding a bit more as needed. Cooking time depends on the age of your beans. Like many of us, older beans may take longer.
Once tender, drain the beans over a bowl, reserving the cooking liquid. Measure out about 2½ cups of this liquid (add a little water or reduce as needed). Stir in the chicken bouillon. Set beans and broth aside.
Make the Charro Beans:
In a large Dutch oven or heavy pot, cook the chopped bacon and chorizo over medium heat until the bacon renders and starts to crisp, about 5 minutes. Spoon off some of the grease if needed, leaving enough to sauté the aromatics.
Add the chopped onion and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the onion is translucent and fragrant, about 3–5 minutes. Add the diced ham (or sausages), tomatoes, jalapeño, chipotle, fresh cilantro, oregano, paprika, cumin, and black pepper. Stir and cook for another 5 minutes to blend the flavors.
Pour in the cooked beans and reserved broth. Stir well. Simmer over low heat for 15–20 minutes, uncovered or partially covered, until the flavors meld and the broth is richly flavored. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, or more spices to taste.
Garnish with more fresh cilantro before serving.
Serve:
Serve ‘em as a main dish with warm tortillas and lime wedges, or as a side alongside grilled meats, ribs, tacos, or just about anything.
Note: This is my stovetop / campfire version—the way I love to cook it at Steelhead Camp or any trip to nature. If you’re interested in slow cooker or Instant Pot variations, just ask and I’ll share those adaptations, too.